Saw these on Marketplace today and bought them purely for nostalgia. Not putting them in anything they re just going on the shelf

These take me straight back to winter nights trying to push a Q6600 from 2.4ghz as far as it would go over 4.2ghz running Prime95 overnight and praying it didnt crash at 3am.
Honestly some of the best years of PC building for me. Things felt simpler, and overclocking actually make difference

Anyone else run these kits back in the day? What were you pairing them with and how far did you get?

Just got done doing some extensive overclocking with a 1T Command Rate without Gear Down Mode enabled. This is what I finally landed on from a pair of free Crucial Ballistix Sport 2400MT/s sticks. I think I'm pretty proud of it and I have tested a 64.5ns memory latency through AIDA64 Memory and Cache test.

Thought this would be a great first post, check it out!

This is not really an overclocking question but i feel like it should ask people who like to de-lid their cpus about my issue...

One of my chiplets has slightly detached below the heat-spreader of my 3970X. Probably TIM-aging. It is progressing (very slowly over months/years) and it is now very noticeable.

I have run targeted tests (stress-test-pulses) through each CCD, measured the power-draw curves, correlated it with the temperature sensor readouts and have fit the data to a thermal model. It clearly shows that the thermal capacity of one of my CCDs is way too low and its thermal resistance is way too high (3x over the average). The thermal model makes it absolutely clear that the TIM below the heat-spreader is the culprit and it also shows that the thermal interface to the water-block is fine (and the chiplet itself is normal too)

I wonder now, if I should put the CPU into an oven, let it bake for a few hours at 80-90°C, then ramp it up to 170°C to re-melt the indium solder in the hopes the crack heals. I do have proper thermal couples and Aluminium blocks laying around - as one has. 😂

1) what are my success-chances
2) what are my chances this goes catastrophically wrong
3) should I put weight on the heat-spreader while heating to 170°C? Intuition says yes, to heal the crack. Intuition also says no, not not stress the die once the weight is removed, on the other hand, the pressure on the package is massive anyway. The right move would be a slight agitation, maybe ding it with a screwdriver a bit "tap tap tap" while hot, then leave it alone.

I need some encouragement, hints and suggestions. I have no experience with indium solder, which is the largest confidence issue for me.

Thank you 👀

Hey guys, curious to hear your results with the i9-10900K.
I finally decided to overclock mine. This CPU has been used and abused in the past — overheated, poor cooling, etc. I recently changed cases, added a Kraken Plus 360 AIO, and she’s running great now.
I overclocked it to 5.1 GHz, which seems to be running stable with good temperatures.
After 15 minutes of stress testing in CPU-Z, the average temp was around 71°C, with a max of 81°C.
My goal was to push it to 5.2 GHz for daily use, but for now I’m going to keep it at 5.1 GHz.
Anyone here pushing theirs past 5.2 GHz — 5.3 or even 5.4 GHz — and keeping it stable for daily use? Not that I necessarily will, because I know that’s definitely getting into silicon lottery territory. Just curious what everyone else is getting!

I've sent an error report after a crash and normal 9070 power limits are back.

I've reinstall the drivers still the same. THIS IS NEW.

NOTE: This post is for Samsung B-die Owners, not for any Hynix-die.
***(MUST HAVE ACTIVE COOLING, temperature pass 58c will crash pc)

Latency Report (Intel MLC): Numa Node
- 66ns (CPU override +200 = 5.4Ghz) / 67ns (CPU no override = 5.2Ghz)

Tuning Guide:
1. 6200MT w/ Tight secondaries / 6400MT w/ JEDEC secondaries.
2. tCL 32 w/ Tight secondaries / tCL 30 w/ JEDEC secondaries.
3. FCLK: 2133 w/ VDDP IOD 0.95v (stock 0.9v); 2167mhz failed during stress test.
4. Nitro Training: 1/2/1 w/ VDDP 0.98v (stock 0.95v)
5. tRFC2 450 - 460 will post but increase heat by alot, performance gain is non-existant.
6. tRFCsb AUTO, setting manually will be unstable for boot training sequence.

Voltage Requirement:
VSOC: 1.2v
VDDP: 0.98v
VDDG CCD: auto
VDDG IOD: 0.95v
MEM VDD: 1.485v (1.5v is fine too) (1.45 will fail absolut@anta777 in first 3 mins)
MEM VDDQ: 1.4v
VDDIO: 1.45v

8hrs Kahru w/cpu
4hrs Y cruncher VST
4Hrs OCCT CPU+RAM

Ram temps don’t exceed 45c

Gaming they are in 30’s

(Quick disclaimer: English isn’t my native language and I’m not an experienced overclocker, so I used ChatGPT to help me write and translate this post.)

Hi everyone, earlier this year I got a bit caught up in RAM pricing FOMO and decided to double my memory capacity, so I ended up replacing my old 4000 MHz CL19 B-die kit with a fairly basic Patriot Viper Steel RGB 32 GB (2x16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 kit, apparently Samsung C-die.

My system is an i5-14600KF on an ASUS Prime B660-PLUS D4 with an RX 9070 XT. I’m GPU-bound most of the time, but I do run into the occasional CPU/memory bottleneck, and since I really don’t feel like spending a stupid amount of money on a DDR5 platform right now, I figured I’d try to get something more out of this kit.

Stock XMP is 3200 16-20-20-40 at 1.35 V.

Right now I’m at 3733 18-22-22-44, Gear 1, 2T, 1.37 V DRAM. I also tightened tRRD_L to 6, tRRD_S to 4 and tFAW to 16. tRFC is still at 654 and most of the other secondary/tertiary timings are still on Auto.

The kit is 2x16 GB dual-rank with Samsung 8 Gb x8 ICs.

One thing that surprised me was SA voltage. Left on Auto, the motherboard was pushing SA VID above 1.3 V and System Agent power went up by a few watts for no real benefit. I set it manually to 1.10 V and it’s been completely fine so far, even at 3733 Gear 1.

I did try 3600 CL16 first, but at 1.37 V it wouldn’t even train. Since this is C-die and I’m not interested in throwing more voltage at it just for the sake of it, I moved in the other direction: higher frequency, CL18, then some secondary timing tightening.

So far it has passed:

• OCCT Memory, 1 hour, 0 errors / 0 WHEA
• TM5 Absolut @ anta777, 1h47 / 2 cycles, 0 errors
• y-cruncher VT3, about 1 hour, passed
• no WHEA errors so far

Would you leave this as a daily profile, or is there still some relatively easy performance left on the table? Would you keep working on timings, or try 3800 Gear 1? I’m not really interested in a borderline benchmark-only OC.

Recently got an r9 380 2gb xfx for around 30 bucks. I decided to overclock it and was able to max out the vram and core clock sliders on MSI afterburner without ANY graphical glitches, stability issues, or freezes. Core clock: 1200mhz, Mem clock: 1750mhz

Just got hit with 2 ATTEMPTED EXECUTE OF NOEXECUTE MEMORY while idle twice and I’m starting to think it’s my xmp as I’ve seen that it can be a cause for this code and the issues I’ve been having.

I have a i9-14900kf and ddr5 6400mhz, only things I’ve tried so far is doing occt ram + cpu for 30 minutes both with xmp enabled and disabled but had no errors, although obviously I know that’s probably not enough time. I have no way of exactly replicated these bsods however when they happen randomly and while idle, during no usage.

I know the recommended speed is 5600 for this cpu but I’ve heard it can handle much more then that, and that 6400 is good for it and can work fine.

Hi all. I’m very new to this so forgive me if I say anything incorrect. Basically, I’m looking to lower the total wattage my 5080 draws while still keeping (and maybe in reading a tad) on the performance side as well as lowering temps. What’s the best way to go about this? I appreciate the help in advance!

Here are my specs if they matter at all
Asus prime 5080 OC edition
Ryzen 7800X3D
Corsair rm 850x shift PSU
b850 gaming x wifi mobo
32gb Corsair ddr5 ram 6000mt/s

Edit: Actually, I just remembered I've got CX H1300 if that's a better option

Update: Okay guys it seems like PTM7950 isn't suitable for that, thanks :)

Heya guys, I've got an MSI Z790 Tomahawk DDR5 that I'm giving to a friend, in the past, just for pure experimentation's sake (too much free time) and boredom I removed the PCH heatsink and replaced it with thermal paste - that was like 2 years ago, and haven't used motherboard much since then. I was wondering if PTM7950 would be a better (even if it's a marginal difference) option? I just want peace of mind for him before giving him the motherboard because I don't even remember which thermal paste was used. Don't get me wrong, obviously I have zero concerns handing it as it is, this is just the OCD hobbyist in me asking on this matter.

Added some pictures from when the PCH heatsink was originally removed and is shown is the original cooling material. Any idea which stuff is used at the factory? I remember it feels like very firm rubber, it wasn't easy to remove from what I recall.

Cheers.

2 profiles
@895mv 2900mhz (10% better perfomance than stock)
@1000mv 3180mhz (15% better perfomance than stock)

Both ultra stable

@895mv 20% more efficient than @1000mv

I don’t want to leave 5% perfomance to the table but i want the efficiency too 🤣😭 choose for me!!

Here is my "cheap" sub-ambient cooling system that ducts front intake fans of the NZXT H6 flow case to home's central cooling. It uses a 3d printer intake from ETSY and a plastic HVAC duct. Below are two benchmarks I ran, not groundbreaking results in terms of the score, but the average temperature recorded on the 5090 while it is pulling 600W was 50C, which is great for an air cooled unit.

https://www.3dmark.com/sn/16536425
https://www.3dmark.com/sn/16536425

During the winter, I am playing on connecting it to the window to pull in that -20C dry winter air :).

Edit: Since there are a lot of comments regarding condensation, I like to clarify few things. As stated above, this is a type of sub-ambient cooling (albeit a very weak one with the current setup). Like any other sub-ambient cooling solution, it runs the risk of condensation.

But the way it is currently setup, the risk is extremely low. Humidity of the ambient air inside the house is generally low (around 21C with 40% humidity) and the air temp at the intake is around 15C, so no part inside the case can get cold enough for water to condensate on. To be more precise, 21C air needs to have somewhere around 75% relative humidity to condensate on a 15C surface. And this is a conservative estimate since 15C air will obviously not be able to cool any part to 15C. A more realistic surface temp inside the case is probably at least 20C, which requires 95% RH for condensation.

There is a higher risk for condensation immediately after the AC turns off, since the air that is pushed after is higher humidity for a couple of minutes (as it is flowing over the wet evaporator). But the air would still need to run through several tens of feet of cold metal ducting before coming to the PC, so most of the condensation will be on the ducting metal and the air will lose humidity. This is still the main reason why I dont run this 24/7.

There is a more pronounced risk if I run this with outside air in the winter (I am talking about -20 to -30C air that we can get) due to extreme deltaT that can cool the parts below dew point of ambient air. But if I ever test that, I will install several humidity sensor inside the case and the intake to monitor condensation risk.

Overall, I am not running this 24/7, and it is very easily install and remove. The white connection duct can be hand pulled and the adapter can be screwed off in 2 mins.

I previously reported the specifications of the Cusu DR360 6,000 MHz CL38 RAM to you: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/1wxlh7v/cusu_dr360_6000_mhz_cl38_ram_specifications/

Now I will share the Kingsman Master 6,000 MHz CL38 model, which is sold as an official distributor by the same prebuilt system company. The Thaipoon Burner report is as follows:

Manufacturer: AITC (Owner of Kingsman)

Chip: Samsung P-Die (I have no knowledge of how different it is from B-Die, it is a RAM chip released by Samsung for DDR5).

PMIC: Richtek RTQ5132GQWF

Temperature sensor is present.

I had it checked 4 days ago. https://www.technopat.net/sosyal/konu/kingsman-6000-mhz-cl38-yanina-hangi-ram-alinir.4184802/post-31064721

Got some good advise from u/pchoov and was able to up my score almost 4 FPS. Still got some headroom here, but my cooler isn't the greatest (PNY 5080 OC Triple Fan). That said its late, too late to be hyped about cracking the top 100. Getting some thermal paste and puddy to see if I can get my temps down a bit, hopefully I can get some more out of the card really enjoying it so far though.

Hi everyone, new to the sub & new to GPU overclocking, but not new to PC building in general.

Relevant specs of my system:

Motherboard: Gigabyte B850 Aorus Stealth (ATX)
CPU: 9800x3d watercooled via Hydroshift II
GPU: Gigabyte RTX5080 Gaming OC
RAM: KLEVV Cras V 32Gb 6000mhz CL30
PSU: LianLi 1000W Edge Gold

TL:DR: My MSI afterburner settings are +3000 memory, +350core, 100% power limit and 100% core voltage. My benchmark scores are hundreds of points higher than if I had the same settings otherwise and had a memory OC of +2500 or 2000. Steel Nomad (99% stability), Speed Way (99.5% stability), OCCT VRAM 1 Hour and OCCT 3D Adaptive 1 Hour stress tests all passed without errors. Temps are stable, hotspot is 75-80ish max and delta to GPU is 10-15C at any given moment.

Is it true the memory OC is stable and there's no ECC related "bottleneck" happening despite people claiming the RTX5080 can only be stable for everyday use at +2000ish memory OC? Am I doing something wrong or did I get lucky with a good GPU?

Long version:

I just recently finished a build and after updating all drivers and the BIOS, I wanted to dabble in overclocking. After reaching a stable UV + CO setup for my CPU I moved on to dabble in 3D mark and MSI Afterburner.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfD8I8yFts&feature=youtu.be - This is the video guide I followed to find my optimal setup for the GPU overclock. I made sure to record all scores every time I adjusted a slider, starting with core clock before moving onto memory clock. My best results came at 125% power limit, 100% core voltage, +350 core and +3000 memory.

After finding the absolute best performance that didn't crash or artifact in the benchmarks (Steel Nomad & Speed Way) I started adjusting the power limit down towards 100% in increments of 5%. I found that at 100% power limit (360W real world draw measured) and +3000 memory +350 Core I still got within 250 points of my all time best score.

I decided to test the stability of this profile and ran Steel Nomad stress test (pass 99% stability score), Speed Way stress test (pass 99.5% stability score), OCCT VRAM for 1 hour (95% of VRAM loaded, no errors recorded) and OCCT 3D Adaptive 10-100% up every 5 seconds by 5%, no errors recorded.

After reading online and people saying that the the RTX5080 typically can only be stable memory OC of +2000 ish and that ECC will actually hide the errors, I'm left wondering if I actually dialed in a real world performance upgrade or something that isn't really stable and is actually hiding behind the ECC "bottleneck"?

I'd be happy to hear from someone more experienced about their thoughts on the methodology and what I might have missed/done wrong/should do.

Hi Guys i hope i am posting in the right area but i am completely lost on this issue..

I purchased a second hand Gigabyte rtx 2070 Super 3x gpu, it was running a bit hot so i decided to Open her up and replace the thermal paste, Immediately shoots up to 100C and fans go airplane mode.. I verified the thermal pads where causing this because it was not making contact with the Die they where a little bit too thick, so i went ahead and replaced all the pads. I have followed all the guides ive seen online(multiple videos for this model) and used the exact recommended sizes...

VRAM .5mm

Chokes 1mm and 1.5mm

After using these sizes i noticed it still goes up to 85-100c almost instantly after launching a benchmark, i have been attempting to fix this for a couple days now, even removed the backplate and tightened without it and it still does not make full contact.. also removed the thermal pads to do a dry run and it still does not look like it makes full contact with the Die.. today im going to completely disassemble the fans and heatsink to see if something is happening in there, i also saw a guide on how to file down the mounting screw units so it makes better contact, that may be my last resort.. Any suggestions?

Could barely cross 10k before with only afterburner, beat my personal best score many times over with mVolt! Results here, once using only mVolt, but also achieved it using only mvolt for xbar while using afterburner for core and memory. Would like to try hydra but paywall :(

Settings:

Core +360, clock range 0-3500 MHz (I think my highest clock registered was 3393 MHz), memclk +3000 MHz, PL 125%, voltage boost 100%, NVVDD set to whatever bios allowed, MSVDD 1055 mV, Xbar +400 MHz. No video offset or sys clocks touched. Obviously not my daily driver but felt pretty decent for a single benchmarking session.