Here is my "cheap" sub-ambient cooling system that ducts front intake fans of the NZXT H6 flow case to home's central cooling. It uses a 3d printer intake from ETSY and a plastic HVAC duct. Below are two benchmarks I ran, not groundbreaking results in terms of the score, but the average temperature recorded on the 5090 while it is pulling 600W was 50C, which is great for an air cooled unit.

https://www.3dmark.com/sn/16536425
https://www.3dmark.com/sn/16536425

During the winter, I am playing on connecting it to the window to pull in that -20C dry winter air :).

Edit: Since there are a lot of comments regarding condensation, I like to clarify few things. As stated above, this is a type of sub-ambient cooling (albeit a very weak one with the current setup). Like any other sub-ambient cooling solution, it runs the risk of condensation.

But the way it is currently setup, the risk is extremely low. Humidity of the ambient air inside the house is generally low (around 21C with 40% humidity) and the air temp at the intake is around 15C, so no part inside the case can get cold enough for water to condensate on. To be more precise, 21C air needs to have somewhere around 75% relative humidity to condensate on a 15C surface. And this is a conservative estimate since 15C air will obviously not be able to cool any part to 15C. A more realistic surface temp inside the case is probably at least 20C, which requires 95% RH for condensation.

There is a higher risk for condensation immediately after the AC turns off, since the air that is pushed after is higher humidity for a couple of minutes (as it is flowing over the wet evaporator). But the air would still need to run through several tens of feet of cold metal ducting before coming to the PC, so most of the condensation will be on the ducting metal and the air will lose humidity. This is still the main reason why I dont run this 24/7.

There is a more pronounced risk if I run this with outside air in the winter (I am talking about -20 to -30C air that we can get) due to extreme deltaT that can cool the parts below dew point of ambient air. But if I ever test that, I will install several humidity sensor inside the case and the intake to monitor condensation risk.

Overall, I am not running this 24/7, and it is very easily install and remove. The white connection duct can be hand pulled and the adapter can be screwed off in 2 mins.

\Yes it’s a 14 year old game. Still 8K is a lot of pixels**. This was just for science, or you can say just for fun purposes.

Vbios flashed RTX 3060 TI with custom fans. I know its an ‘old piece of trash’ but I still love this card

I know higher resolutions have a lot more pixel data to be processed, but wow memory overclock beats Core overclock??

16% increase when combing core + memory overclock? That’s roughly a generational performance uplift nowadays lol

Hey everyone,

In short: I ended up turning my gaming PC into a dedicated workstation.

Instead of jumping to AM5, I decided to see just how far I could push the AM4 platform. After about a month, it's finally running. ( not completed tho! )

Specs:

• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero (X570)
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D + Noctua NH-D15S (modded with dual fans + plastic shroud)
• RAM: 128 GB (4x32 GB) G.SKILL Trident Z Neo DDR4-3600 CL16 (F4-3600C16Q-128GTZN)
• Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500 GB NVMe, Apacer AS2280P4 1 TB NVMe, 2 TB SATA SSD

Sadly, the IMC only allows 3600, the 5800X3D can do -18, -26 negative offset. I am still playing with the secondary and tertiary timings.

GPUs:

• GPU 0: MSI GeForce RTX 3090 GAMING X TRIO 24GB - custom deshroud bracket on the way, planning 2x Noctua NF-A12x25
• GPU 1: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3090 GAMING OC 24GB - deshrouded with 3x Noctua NF-A9
• GPU 2 (Host/DWM): Gigabyte RX 9060 XT 16GB -200 MHz core / -95 mV undervolt, deshrouded with 2x Noctua NF-P12 PWM, it also helps to push cool air to the MSI 3090

The two RTX 3090s run in PCIe 4.0 x8/x8 via CPU lanes, and the display card runs via the chipset at PCIe 4.0 x4.

Chassis, PSU:

• Case: FSP U500 ( more Noctuas incoming ) and I love this chonky case.
• PSU: FSP Hydro PTM PRO 1000W Platinum, semi-passive fan curve stays off until ~300W load. It handles the whole rig without breaking a sweat, as both 3090s are undervolted and hard-capped at 250W each.
• Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5 32" 1440p 144Hz

Overall, I'm really satisfied with the results. The 3D-printed shroud duct for the CPU cooler directs airflow over all 4 DIMMs, keeping memory temps well within check during sustained load.

The chassis has space for two massive radiators, so the next project might be custom water cooling for the 3090s.

Cheers,
bceen

Hey everyone,

I’m a bit confused with my 5070 Ti tuning in mVolt+ and would love some opinions.

Card: RTX 5070 Ti (VBIOS 98.03.58.00.7d)

Power limit locked at 300 W.

First setup (simple offset):

• Core +350
• XBAR +250
• Memory +1500
• No curve editing

Results in Steel Nomad:

• Score ~7470
• Most of the run: 0.995–1.000 V and 3045–3082 MHz
• Only a very short peak at the very end: 3227 MHz @ 1.045 V

Second setup (aggressive curve):

• Core offset 0 or small (+250)
• Flattened at 1050 mV → 3180–3187 MHz

Results:

• Score noticeably lower (7220–7290)
• Voltage stayed 0.99–1.02 V
• Sustained clocks only 2940–3015 MHz

So with the plain +350 offset I get higher average clocks, better score, and almost the same (or even lower) average voltage. The 1.07 V only appears as a 1-second spike at the end.

I was under the impression that proper V/F curve editing is always superior, but in my case the simple offset is winning hard.

Is this normal on some 5070 Ti samples?

Should I just stick with the +350 offset, or is there a better way to force the card to use the higher points on the curve without raising the power limit?

Also, I don't quite understand how critical a voltage of 1.070-1.075 is if it appears literally for just a second, like a spike. Should I leave the current settings and limit the maximum voltage to 1.050?

Any insights appreciated. Thanks!

So my 5070 Ti has a 350W BIOS, and I undervolted it in Afterburner to 3100MHz at 990mV, with the memory at +2100.

Do I just remove the Afterburner undervolt and only tune the card using mVolt+?

I want to tweak, but I don't know if tweaking a bit too far can kill my card. Any suggestions on how to begin?

managed to push these to 6400 but I can't seem to improve, anyone got any tips? --------------- I'm also trying to build a ddr5 ram tuning companion that helps guide you to overclock as I always forget what does what, it gives you warning if you get to the flaw or have a conflict with timings, tracks changes, has a built in ram benchmark and can be used to log other benchmarks and flags up any degradation caused by over tightening. if anyone has lots of data to share or bios config dumps. it can take .bin files text or csv as input so you can get timings directly from the bios if you mb supports it. it will also output CSV or a text dump like this perfect for sharing on Reddit

== DDR5 TUNING LAB - BIOS CONFIGURATION ===

Profile: Z890 Taichi OCF (Intel(R) Core(TM) Ultra 9 285K)

Kit: Micron / Crucial DDR5 128 GB (2 x 64 GB) (128GB, dual rank)

Target Frequency: 6400 MT/s (Gear 2, CR 2N)

--- PRIMARY TIMINGS ---

tCL: 40 | tRCD: 46 | tRCDW: 46 | tRP: 46 | tRAS: 58 | tRC: 104

--- SECONDARY TIMINGS ---

tWR: 48 | tRFC2: 592 | tRFCpb: 606 | tREFI: 65535

tRRD_S: 4 | tRRD_L: 6 | tFAW: 20 | tRTP: 12 | tCWL: 38

tCCD_L: 16 | tCCD_L_WR: 48 | tWTR_L: 20 | tWTR_S: 8

--- TURNAROUNDS (DUAL RANK & MULTI-DIMM) ---

tRDWR_sg: 18 | tRDWR_dg: 18 | tRDWR_dr: 18 | tRDWR_dd: 18

tWRRD_sg: 66 | tWRRD_dg: 54 | tWRRD_dr: 12 | tWRRD_dd: 12

tRDRD_sg: 16 | tRDRD_dg: 8 | tRDRD_dr: 14 | tRDRD_dd: 14

tWRWR_sg: 48 | tWRWR_dg: 8 | tWRWR_dr: 14 | tWRWR_dd: 14

--- VOLTAGES (PMIC & CPU IMC / SA) ---

PMIC DRAM VDD: 1.25V | PMIC DRAM VDDQ: 1.25V | VPP: 1.815V

CPU VDD2 (IMC): 1.25V | CPU VDDQ (TX): 1.25V

CPU System Agent (VCCSA): 1.18V | CPU VCCIN AUX: 1.8V

Okay I have an acrylic scraper and when I delid my AMD CPU, I can never get all of the black adhesive off no matter that I try, what chemical can I use to dissolve it?

Made top 5 in Steel Nomad on a fresh air cooled Astral 5080. The memory seems rock solid!

I was on a 9800X3D prior. Chasing perfect performance in an unnamed game. I thought what the hell… might as well see if 7% more clock gets me anything… but chasing clock stability I decided to upgrade my cooling from a liquid freezer III pro 420mm to a full custom direct die (only) loop : Thermal Grizzly Direct Die AM5, Alphacool 420UT60, 6x noctua g2 140mm, aquacomputer ultitube D5 next 275 and some EPDM tubing. But lately I’ve noticed the system performance is a lot more stable with the clocks clipped to… well the 9800X3D speeds… having an n-th look at the bios SP score readout … I noticed that core 6 and 7 according to the factory V/F curve… aren’t even 5625 MHz capable (yes they are very close)… and the last point they list is in the 1.37V+ range… (image included). I’ve not seen this in any other 9850X3D SP readout online. That the last two cores simply can’t hit full turbo under the 1.4V ceiling… Anyone else on the same chip seen this ?

Cusu RAMs are sold in Turkey by a pre-built system company acting as the official distributor. We had the Cusu DR360 6000 MHz CL38 model checked 2.5 months ago. Now, I am forwarding these reports to you.

Manufacturer: Techwinsemi (Cusu)

Chip: Hynix M-Die

PMIC: Richtek RTQ5132GQWF

There is no temperature sensor. Additionally, the RAM is quite new; although both systems were purchased at the beginning of July, the RAM was manufactured in the 21st week of 2026 (May 18-22). That's a gap of less than 2 months.

https://www.technopat.net/sosyal/konu/cusu-16-gb-ddr5-ram-ozellikleri.4146122/

https://techolay.net/sosyal/konu/iki-ram-birlikte-takiliyken-windows-kapaniyor.207054/post-1828648

I know it's probably not the best way to go, but does anyone know why the OC scanner in nvidia app as well as afterburner fails almost immediately. I've tried DDU, I've tried older drivers, I've tried disabling overlays, I've tried essentially having the OC scan utility as the only optional app running. Nothing has worked thus far. Ideas? I'm thinking I may have to nuke windows and start fresh.

Hi everyone,

I’m running into an issue with my setup and would love some advice from the community on how to fix these FPS drops and whether I can push my clocks or RAM any further.

Specs & Setup:

• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900KS (Delidded + Thermal Grizzly Mycro Direct-Die Pro RGB + Liquid Metal)
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Hero
• RAM: 64GB (2x32GB) Corsair DOMINATOR TITANIUM DDR5 6600MT/s CL32 (currently running on XMP at 6800 MT/s)
• GPU: ASUS ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC
• CPU SP Score: Overall 106 (P-Core SP 122 / E-Core SP 82)

Current BIOS / OC Settings:

• P-Cores: All-Core 58x
• E-Core: All-Core 47x
• Power Limits: Fully removed / uncapped (Unlimited)
• LLC: Level 7
• DC/AC Loadline: AC 0.01 / DC 0.65

The Problem:

While the CPU appears to be stable, I frequently get bad FPS drops / micro-stutters while playing heavy CPU titles like Battlefield.

• Temperatures during gaming are great, sitting around 60–70°C, so thermal throttling isn't the culprit.
• The drops are definitely coming from the CPU side, not the GPU.

Questions:

1. FPS Drops: What could be causing these micro-stutters given my voltage/loadline settings (LLC7 + AC 0.01) or removed limits? Could LLC7 with extremely low AC LL be causing transient droop / instability issues under heavy load changes?
2. CPU Clock: Given my SP 122 P-cores and direct-die cooling, can I push the CPU clocks higher (e.g. 5.9GHz or 6.0GHz all-core)? What voltage/VF curve settings would you recommend?
3. RAM Tuning: Is there room to push this 64GB kit higher than 6800 MT/s on the Z790 Hero, or am I hitting a wall for a 2x32GB dual-rank kit on a 4-dimm board?

Any insight on fine-tuning the VF curve, AC/DC loadlines, or memory timings to fix the stutters would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Hello I'd like to share my GPU undervolt and overclock for now im testing it but it seems to be stable (low fps only because of RT).

GPU is Sapphire RX 7800 XT Pulse.

Did my first gpu repaste.

Used Duronaut Pro & Putty pro from TG.

Next time ill use a little less putty.

Used putty on the backside of vram between pcb and backplate. Next time ill use some there for the vrm too.

Also repasted cpu while at it.

First time using afterburner. Wanted to do a mild undervolt with mild overclock. Here are my hwinfo64 values after running space marine 2 on max settings with ray tracing (and frame gen) and dlss on for about an hour maybe more. Screenshot taken less than 10 seconds from finishing a mission, still in game.*

Does this look healthy for the card? I never noticed any visual artifacts and havent had any crashes in the few days since i changed things.

Tempted to push things further because i have never encountered any issues so i dont know my upper threshold. May just leave as is

This is the specific memory model I have: KED4161CAB2F2HB1 (2x16 GB kit). I am using an H510M-E motherboard and an i5-11400F processor. Would it be possible to stabilize the latencies at CL14-14-14? If so, could you please provide a voltage configuration or any settings that might help stabilize them at 2933 MHz?

recently upgraded the PC to something newer (had like a 12yr old pc before) and noticed on HWinfo that temps were getting pretty high under load and also noticed Vcore sometimes hitting 1.46v peaks even under idle/light loads (noticed VR VOUT reading above 1.5v idk if this is meaningful since it says vcore also)

Mobo: Asus Tuf Gaming B760-plus wifi D4

Bios: latest version 1836

all mobo setting are at there defaults/intel default since i only just updated it a month ago.

Cooler: Phantom Spirit 120 evo

it's idle around 25-30c average even under light loads like brower/youtube but will spike up to like 50c for a short time (i assume this is also when volts spike), under heavy load i've hit above 90c.

i haven't messed with undervolt/overclocking before so not really sure how to go about things, tried looking through old posts and forums but i keep seeing conflicting info, especially since my Mobo is a B series board.

since i heard about the 13th/14th gen chip issues and how hot they can run i just want to lower my volt/temps so i'm not cooking my new cpu with defaults.

I bought 6400mhz cl30 amd expo 32gb Hynix a die memory

With my bios done it won’t post the expo profile

However if I set everything to base bios and run expo it will load

Does this mean I can run 6400/2133?

Has anyone experimented with this yet? Is it stable? Can we achieve similar UV/OC on, like the core curve editor for the voltage?

Soo !! Sold my Fclk 2233 on and bought another. This one boots 6800 1-1 mode so knew 6600-2200 would be a breeze, spent 2/3 days testing 6600-2200. Was busy for a couple days then got back to trying 2-1 mode which again is just short bursts looking for the ceiling as 8800-2200 CL32 GDM disabled boots on 1st go and the 1st sample that has done so, had another that booted GDM enabled at CL34 but needed some work for it to even train never mind boot, where as this one is just straight auto settings, you’ll never get max boot stable but is usually a good indicator on IMC quality, but so far on short tests 8400-8500 works and 8600 is so so.

1st, 2nd and 3d pics, 6600-2200 CL26 1.63VDD,1.45VDDQ,1.45VDDIO,1.15VDDP,1.28Vsoc

4th pic, 8442-2211 CL32 TM5 Abolut run (toughest to pass)
1.68VDD,1.55VDDQ,1,47VDDIO,1.18VDDP,1.13Vsoc

5th & 6th pics, 8542-2211 CL32
Pushing the limits to see when it errors.
1.75VDD,1.59VDDQ,1.55VDDIO,1.22VDDP,1.15Vsoc

7th & 8th pics, short test at 8600-2200 CL32
1.75VDD,1.65VDDQ,1.55VDDIO,1.22VDDP,1.18Vsoc

9th pic, 8800-2200 CL32 GDM disabled boot on Auto

Also bear in mind folks, this chip ain’t delidded or messed in anyway, shape or form. I simply keep it stock and use an Arctic 360MM pro, ambient temperature 18/19c