Cant see it in the first picture but litterally All four directions were under stress and were at really wonky angles from all directions. Some high, some low and none at true 90°s. Soon as i cut it out the pipes bent back to where they lie naturally without under stress.

Few custom angled 90's later and its all stress free now 💪🏼

Gemini says 1950s to 1970. First time for me!

I set up a box for fertilisation all of my plants. Kept losing track of when I lasted fertilised so made this based on the EZ-Flo Proboxes.

Got a water meter in there with a totaliser on top to see how much water has been used.

In conditions of universal degradation, the independent assembly, commissioning, and simple repair of such a system by one's own efforts develops at least some human capital, especially in the 3rd world countries.

The engineering project SmIrr (Smart Irrigation) is presented for review, designed on the basis of the new generation logic module Siemens LOGO! 9.

The calculation is performed according to the FAO-56 Penman–Monteith methodology.​

Principal structure:Weather → ET₀ → Crop → Kc → Crop Requirement.

The system solves the non-linear Penman-Monteith equation for precision calculation of water evaporation ET₀ based on local climatic parameters. The average error of the mathematical core relative to reference calculations is only −0.75%.

The minute-by-minute calculation of water evaporation ET₀ in real time completely eliminates the physical error of daily average parameters (up to 10–15%) arising due to sharp daytime fluctuations in temperature and humidity when calculating the vapor pressure deficit (VPD). At the same time, the mathematical core allows using any time interval for calculations.

Target segment - small farms from 3–10 ha and industrial potential, with the possibility of scaling up to 1000 ha and support for up to 32 irrigation sectors.

Two modifications have been developed, made as a ready-made "box" (DIY) option for independent assembly, commissioning, and repair of such a system by one's own efforts:

• SmIrr v.I:Smart irrigation. Climatic method. Especially relevant in zones of severe water crisis and in hard-to-reach areas (foothills or places with a local water source: underground springs).
• SmIrr v.II:Smart precision irrigation. The climatic method works in tandem with MLSMS multi-level soil moisture sensors, which gives absolute precision in irrigation. The implementation of communication with sensors and remote valves in the field is made on simple, affordable, reliable remote controls at an accessible frequency of 868 MHz, LoRa modulation (noise immunity), which completely excludes the use of complex, expensive equipment. Currently, a laboratory with calibration and metrology of multi-level soil moisture sensors is needed to complete version V.II.

Management flexibility and configurable parameters:All critical system variables are fully configurable, which allows quickly adapting the algorithm to any agronomic scenarios.

• Basic geographical coefficientsFOR THE CONTROLLER LOCATION.
• ET₀ thresholds and individual percentage adjustments ET₁.
• Temporary crop growth phases and percentage adjustments of the Kc coefficient. In case of force majeure (frosts, drought), the agronomist can manually change the phase deadlines and Kc coefficients.
• Basic irrigation volumes for each irrigation sector (b017–b020).
• Exact start/end time, as well as the total duration of irrigation.
• Time of fixing the daily total of the calculated ET₀.
• Water intake parameters and water level control in the source.
• Precipitation accounting scenario in irrigation, with subsequent top-up.
• If internet. Expected precipitation scenario – overflow protection.

Double irrigation scenario. CYCLE & SOAK function (overflow protection):in program blocks UDF %.1 and UDF %.2, exact discharge ratios before and after the technological pause are configured.

Brief functional characteristics of the system:

• Actual precipitation accounting:Measurement and summation of local rain in real time via a pulse rain gauge with automatic correction, cancellation, and "top-up" of the residual moisture deficit.
• Expected precipitation scenarios (Overflow protection. If internet available):The predictive precipitation accounting block is implemented through integration with Home Assistant or a Mini-PC. Via Weather API, if the forecast shows expected precipitation, for example, ≥ 10 mm/m² and probability ≥ 70% for the next 2 days, then the controller cancels irrigation, and after precipitation automatically tops up to the required norm.
• Double irrigation (Cycle & Soak):Fractional cyclic irrigation according to calculated water doses instead of rigid timers, preventing surface runoff, fertilizer leaching, and root hypoxia.
• Weather events chronology and data logging:Automatic fixing and maintenance of a log of climatic parameters (air temperature, humidity, wind speed, solar radiation), meter readings, as well as actuator on/off states on MicroSD or online in Excel files. This ensures the transparency of PLC decision-making for subsequent deep analysis or building predictive models in artificial intelligence.
• Discrete part automation (Actuator loop):Direct control of power equipment (pump units, sector electromagnetic solenoid valves) through discrete PLC outputs with water hammer and dry-run protection.

The system architecture provides a reduction in capital expenditures (CapEx) by 83–88% relative to global commercial automation complexes of the Rain Bird ESP-LXD or Galcon Galileo level. This opens up professional precision farming technologies for any remote areas (foothills, zones with underground springs) where classical systems are economically inaccessible.

Attached:Full package of project and technical documentation (PROJECT SMIRR, COMPARATIVE ENGINEERING ANALYSIS).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fAvyzbIaLm3NGsxgJZZddV_Fvgpifl0n/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13TNmr_pYq-Ubt8v1ldpmetLubXVfFBOX/view?usp=sharing

Demonstration video materials:

• Prototype:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtzbK2FZvMw
• SIEMENS LOGO! 9. SMART IRRIGATION SYSTEMS VERSION 1. CLIMATE-BASED METHOD:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNapcIgz_sE

Looks like an old repair that failed due to the stressed angles.

And Ofcourse all of the fittings are budded up together. So now i have to tackle this whole monstrosity.. wish me luck.

Sprinkler sheared off and looking to cap it, but can’t get a cap to thread on for the life of me. I’m sure it’s having a problem starting to thread based on how it was sheared off, just not sure how to fix it to get it to thread.

I was wondering if anyone has added a flow meter to their tow-behind air compressor setup. I was thinking about it today while blowing out an account that I’m unfamiliar with. The question is whether it’s a small zone or just a valve that’s not working. It would be great to see if air is moving. TIA

Is this sprinkler repairable or does it need replaced?

managing an apartment community in blue ash with an irrigation system that was installed probably fifteen years ago. spend more each summer on repairs than feels justified for a system that is always having issues somewhere broken heads, zone failures, controller problems

trying to figure out whether there is a threshold where full replacement makes more financial sense than continuing to repair. also not sure whether the company doing our repairs is giving us an honest assessment or just recommending the minimum to keep the work coming back, had landform out for a second opinion at one point, local company, don't remember if their take ended up changing my thinking much

curious how other property managers have thought about this decision and what actually moved them toward replacement

Ok, I’m starting to build up my customers, been installing some RC2/ME3 rain bird and some x2 hunter, I’ve also inherited a bunch of both from customers. I’m getting more into managing those controllers, trying to figure out which one I want to focus on more. I’ve noticed some rain bird 2 improvements over the last few weeks and their ratings are up but I also find Hydrawise pretty solid, although a lot of my crew think rain bird controllers are easier to use at the panel. Ok I’m not looking for big bashing on either one, or just “hunter sucks” or “rain bird sucks” I really want to know if you like Hydrawise and why or rain bird 2 or IQ or why and for bonus ⭐️, what’s the big difference between the two. And what is one missing over another in a big way.

Hi guys! I clearly know nothing about irrigation and pumps. However, I do need to winterize it before the end of October. I already drained the pump but I can’t figure out where I’d connect an air compressor to blow out the sprinklers. Curious if I need to install a valve somewhere. This isn’t my house.. just my sweet sweet burden ☺️ Any advice is welcomed.

Hi everybody,

So we were in a drought earlier in the year and had irrigation restrictions. So I shut off my system. My wife noticed that one of the sprinklers was still leaking with the controller shut off, so I shut off the quarter turn valve downstream of backflow preventer.

Our grass was pretty much toast from a hot summer and no rain or sprinklers running

One day I noticed that it looked like the sprinklers had run so I asked my wife if she turned them back on, she did but only at the controller so I guess the system had run with whatever residual pressure until it reached equilibrium

I turned the valve open again but now it looks like there is very little pressure in all zones

If I mess with the valve upstream of the check valve the pressure seems to go up momentarily

Im thinking that maybe the check valve is causing the issue, but would like to hear any ideas

I let the system run manually to see if there was any air trapped and I bled the system in zone 1 (which is the only zone valve that I know where it is located)

Thanks!

Interesting issue I have been chasing for a few weeks. TLDR: After quite a bit of testing and 2 replacement transformers, I've narrowed it down to Zone 1 being faulty but how to fix/repair it???

Long story short, my zone 1 was stuck on and I couldn't turn it off, so I shut water off at the backflow and waited a week for the tech to show up. He turns the water on and calls me to tell me we have no power to the system and zone 1 can't possibly be stuck on since the system is powered off and no zone is turned on... This is when I first found out that the transformer was cooked so I ordered another one and I replaced it a week later. Also, we manually checked a zone to verify the water was on and that worked just fine.

The controller powered up witht he new transformer, but none of the zones would work so I put this project on hold and was going to set up another tech appointment, when the new transformer blew overnight...time to do some investigation.

- tested all the zones with an ohm meter. Zone 1 read 2.4 Ohms, and all other zones read 4.2 Ohms. I got some jumper cables out and tested all of my zones directly to the transformer output( after I replaced the transformer again (3rd one for those keeping track)) All of them turned on except zone 1, which showed a significant voltage drop when I connected the jumpers to zone 1.

At the end of the day, I disconnected zone 1 and plugged everything in and everything has been working just fine for 4-5 days now. Now that I'm convinced that zone 1 is the issue, now my question is what to do about it? Other than, finding it, digging it up and replacing it, is there other options?

Never gonna break a hunter driver again! Might lose it though 😅

Actually love holding this thing idk why it’s got the same energy as my fav minifig from childhood.

I believe i had a Hunter PGP Ultra 4" Rotor sprinkler. This zone has 4 sprinklers and I am looking at disabling temporarily (several years at least) as i have set up a garden bed and the sprinkler hits it directly. Location is Boston so cold weather. I will be winterizing my sprinklers in 2 weeks.

What do you suggest to disable that sprinkler? I read using a 3/4" expandable rubber winterization plug to put into the piece i removed (within the filter case and the white valve), thoughts?

RE:Orbit B-hyve Gen 2 Faucet Timer:

I might be behind the times, but I recently noticed there was a hub firmware upgrade (I have 2) so I updated both, and perhaps unrelated, then noticed there is now a grouping option to group individual gen 2 timers to run in a program, instead of having to set them individually. Could be perhaps an app update that added this option, but it was not there about a week ago when I created a program to water new seed for a few minutes a few times a day. Definitely a better experience.

I have spot in the yard where water was pooling, had the same issue the year before and replacing that sprinkler head with a SAM style head prevented that spot from leaking, but doing so with this sprinkler head does not fix the leaking head.

This is a brand new SAM head and I have yet to backfill the hole and I don't see water dripping from any other spot other than a very, very slow trickle from the top of the sprinkler head.

Why is there water in the line is my first question? I understand some water will be in the line while the valve is shutting off, but this pipe had water continually spewing out (low PSI) when I removed the old sprinkler head and replaced it with the new sprinkler head.

I don't hear any water flowing through the pipes, but I suppose if it is a very slow trickle bypassing the valve then I may not hear it at all.

Would my next step be to change the valve that is underground in the valve box?

Thanks.

Hello, new home owner trying to figure out what we need to do to turn off our system and winterize before the cold.

The city announced they turned off the irrigation about 5 days ago. We turned off our sprinkler timer that day and it hasn’t been running since.

Here are pictures of the 3 yard boxes I have. Based on what research I have done, I know that we need to at least:
1. Turn off the main valve to the system (problem here… I don’t know which valve to turn)
2. Let the system drain or blow it out with compressed air. (I’ve read that some people keep your timer running for a few days to help with draining after the main valve is turned off, or some caps to remove to let it drain?)
3. Do something with the back flow preventer (I don’t know where this is, or what to do with it. These are all the irrigation boxes and there isn’t anything that looks like what I’ve seen in videos attached to the side of the house).

Would be great to know what is in each of these 3 boxes, what things I should do to turn off a winterize, and anything else that might be useful. Thanks in advance for the help and insights here!

Who uses a hydrovac?

Yesterday I walked by a couple of guys digging up control valves and wires in a large corporate green space. Sticky wet Houston clay. What a mess! I'm just a homeowner fix-it guy. I use a wet-dry vac and water spray to clean up the hole before any cuts. I can't figure anything out if it's all covered in mud.

Can’t make this up

look, if I would’ve been told upfront that I was gonna lose most of the features after 4 to 5 years, then I wouldn’t be pissed, but how can you move to a subscription model and not grandfather people in or let me know upfront?

I recently installed a PVB referencing the city's website for examples of backflow devices. Got it inspected and inspector said had to be a double check valve. So I ordered one, but then talked to someone else who said they are allowing PVBs in some situations and would reach out to schedule an inspection.

So here's the problem, I can't return the double check valve because I ordered it on ebay, so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the PVB since it sounds like that is ultimately what will be required. I would then need to get it tested for $50.

Either way I wasted money but if i swap them then at least I wouldn't have to winterize the pipe sticking up, and wouldn't have to look at it. But it is more work.

What would you recommend? Keep the current or worth the time to swap out?

I have a hunter pro sprinkler in this location and was wondering what the best nozzle would be to put on it to water this narrow section next to my porch. The nozzle that it has on it only waters about half the length of the area and also blast into the fence and floods.