Sprinkler sheared off and looking to cap it, but can’t get a cap to thread on for the life of me. I’m sure it’s having a problem starting to thread based on how it was sheared off, just not sure how to fix it to get it to thread.

I was wondering if anyone has added a flow meter to their tow-behind air compressor setup. I was thinking about it today while blowing out an account that I’m unfamiliar with. The question is whether it’s a small zone or just a valve that’s not working. It would be great to see if air is moving. TIA

Looks like an old repair that failed due to the stressed angles.

And Ofcourse all of the fittings are budded up together. So now i have to tackle this whole monstrosity.. wish me luck.

Gemini says 1950s to 1970. First time for me!

Is this sprinkler repairable or does it need replaced?

Ok, I’m starting to build up my customers, been installing some RC2/ME3 rain bird and some x2 hunter, I’ve also inherited a bunch of both from customers. I’m getting more into managing those controllers, trying to figure out which one I want to focus on more. I’ve noticed some rain bird 2 improvements over the last few weeks and their ratings are up but I also find Hydrawise pretty solid, although a lot of my crew think rain bird controllers are easier to use at the panel. Ok I’m not looking for big bashing on either one, or just “hunter sucks” or “rain bird sucks” I really want to know if you like Hydrawise and why or rain bird 2 or IQ or why and for bonus ⭐️, what’s the big difference between the two. And what is one missing over another in a big way.

I set up a box for fertilisation all of my plants. Kept losing track of when I lasted fertilised so made this based on the EZ-Flo Proboxes.

Got a water meter in there with a totaliser on top to see how much water has been used.

Interesting issue I have been chasing for a few weeks. TLDR: After quite a bit of testing and 2 replacement transformers, I've narrowed it down to Zone 1 being faulty but how to fix/repair it???

Long story short, my zone 1 was stuck on and I couldn't turn it off, so I shut water off at the backflow and waited a week for the tech to show up. He turns the water on and calls me to tell me we have no power to the system and zone 1 can't possibly be stuck on since the system is powered off and no zone is turned on... This is when I first found out that the transformer was cooked so I ordered another one and I replaced it a week later. Also, we manually checked a zone to verify the water was on and that worked just fine.

The controller powered up witht he new transformer, but none of the zones would work so I put this project on hold and was going to set up another tech appointment, when the new transformer blew overnight...time to do some investigation.

- tested all the zones with an ohm meter. Zone 1 read 2.4 Ohms, and all other zones read 4.2 Ohms. I got some jumper cables out and tested all of my zones directly to the transformer output( after I replaced the transformer again (3rd one for those keeping track)) All of them turned on except zone 1, which showed a significant voltage drop when I connected the jumpers to zone 1.

At the end of the day, I disconnected zone 1 and plugged everything in and everything has been working just fine for 4-5 days now. Now that I'm convinced that zone 1 is the issue, now my question is what to do about it? Other than, finding it, digging it up and replacing it, is there other options?

Cant see it in the first picture but litterally All four directions were under stress and were at really wonky angles from all directions. Some high, some low and none at true 90°s. Soon as i cut it out the pipes bent back to where they lie naturally without under stress.

Few custom angled 90's later and its all stress free now 💪🏼