I put everything on there, took it out of my phone and when i tried to plug it into my computer it was unable to open it unless i formatted it. Sure, why not? "All files will be deleted/wiped from the card" WHAT?

I did cancel and am unsure of how to proceed. Will it truly delete everything and then I'll have to go on a data recovery journey? Or is it just a possible scenario? Or was this really the most efficent way they found to transfer data??

Im not sure if this is a hardware, data recovery or something else flare. Thank you for your time!

edit: wow, yall are FAST! tysm, I did NOT format it (and have now learnt that formating comes in handy when deleting files, not transferring them) put it back in my phone (still works), and will check the cable and my phone settings when reattempting to transfer the files from my phone. thank you for your patience and speed!

for the longest time my main hard drive has been low on space and i didnt know why. i downloaded WinDirStat to see whats taking up so much and i noticed that nvidia is taking up 18GB of storage on a folder named DXcache, i know next to nothing about tech so could anyone tell me if this is normal, and if not whats safe to delete?

This is the popup I get https://imgur.com/a/OetseEz

This happened after using the after using powershell to uninstall Xbox with this thing https://github.com/christitustech/winutil

Does anyone know how to get rid of this pop up?

I get this popup literally every time I open any application on my pc now it's so annoying

Thank you!

I have an old 40GB laptop hard drive that I removed from a laptop around 7–8 years ago. It hasn't been used since then.

I recently remembered that it contains some old pictures that I would really like to recover.

The problem is that, about 7–8 years ago, I formatted this drive three times during Windows installations.

After the last format, I removed the drive from the laptop and basically haven't used it since.

Is there still any realistic chance of recovering those old pictures after all these years and three formats?

I don’t know what this means please help me understand if my system is at risk I’m on windows 11 on a gaming pc

hello, Im having issues conecting my phone to my pc via usb, i use it to hotspot for better conection, and it worked for a while, but one day i was using it, and it just stopped working all together, my pc no longer recognizes my phone at all, i've tried changing usb ports on my pc (its a laptop so it only has 2) i've searched tutorials online, and followed this one by Kapilarya but it didnt work, so if you have any solutions to this ill be very gratefull.

the hotspot on my phone still works btw

I’m trying to diagnose a RAM issue on my gaming PC where two matching 16GB DDR4 sticks will each work individually, but the system will not POST with both installed together.
System specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5500
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080
Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX
RAM: 2x16GB Kingston DDR4
OS: Windows
Main use: Gaming, especially Escape from Tarkov
Problem:
The PC works normally with one 16GB Kingston stick installed, but I cannot get the system to boot with both 16GB sticks installed at the same time.
Testing I have done:
Kingston 16GB Stick #1 works by itself in RAM slot 1.
Kingston 16GB Stick #2 also works by itself in RAM slot 1.
If I put either 16GB Kingston stick by itself into RAM slot 2, the system fails to POST and the motherboard CPU debug LED stays illuminated.
I tested a separate 8GB DDR4 stick in RAM slot 2, and the PC was able to boot with that stick installed.
The PC boots normally with one of the 16GB Kingston sticks in slot 1.
With both 16GB Kingston sticks installed, the system does not POST and I get no BIOS display.
I left the system powered on for approximately 15 minutes with both 16GB sticks installed in case the motherboard was performing memory training, but it never POSTed.
Because both 16GB sticks work individually in slot 1, I don’t think either RAM stick is completely defective.
The strange part is that slot 2 is capable of working with an 8GB DDR4 stick, but apparently not with either of the 16GB Kingston sticks.
I’m trying to determine whether this points toward:
BIOS/AGESA compatibility
RAM compatibility with this motherboard/CPU combination
Incorrect DRAM voltage, frequency, or timings
XMP/A-XMP configuration
CPU memory controller issue
Bent or damaged CPU pins
Poor CPU socket contact
Motherboard RAM trace/channel issue
BIOS corruption or outdated BIOS
Memory training failure
A problem running dual-rank or higher-capacity DIMMs
Some other motherboard limitation/failure
Things I’m considering trying next:
Reset CMOS and test both sticks again with completely default BIOS settings.
Make sure A-XMP is disabled.
Manually set the RAM to a low speed such as DDR4-2133 or DDR4-2400.
Manually set DRAM voltage to the RAM manufacturer’s rated voltage.
Update the motherboard to the latest stable BIOS that supports the Ryzen 5 5500.
Remove and reseat the CPU.
Inspect the Ryzen CPU pins carefully for anything bent or contaminated.
Check the CPU cooler mounting pressure in case uneven pressure is affecting memory-channel contact.
Test the motherboard outside the case to rule out a grounding/shorting issue.
Try another known-good 2x16GB kit if possible.
I’m also wondering about the CPU debug LED. Since the Ryzen memory controller is located on the CPU, could a memory/channel initialization failure cause the MSI board to illuminate the CPU LED even if the CPU itself is functional?
The system is usable with 16GB, but I’m trying to get the full 32GB working.
If anyone has run into a similar issue with a Ryzen 5 5500 and MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX, I’d appreciate suggestions on what component is most likely responsible and what tests I should perform before replacing the motherboard or CPU.

Hi everyone. I need some serious help with my wife’s PC. It’s brand new and has been doing this since the first launch of the PC. The hardware is as follows:

Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X870-PRO WIFI7 W NEO AM5 ATX

CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000Mhz

SSD: Samsung SSD 990 PRO 2TB, PCIe 4.0 M.2

GPU: ASUS Prime GeForce RTX 5070Ti 12GB GDDR7

Every single startup after turning off the power to the PC leads to a solid green light on the motherboard, with the monitor trying to receive signal but just a black screen as the result. (Won’t POST) AI is claiming it is a known issue - the only way to bypass it is clearing CMOS and changing settings within the BIOS. However, every time this has to be redone and the changed settings are lost. I’ve replaced the CMOS battery as well, this did not fix the issue

Has anyone experienced this? If so, what is the permanent fix, if any?

Thank you all so much for your help with this - I look forward to a resolution (hopefully)

Is it necessary to update my phone, it doesn't seem to be affecting it, however i keep getting the annoying notification.

Hello,

My friend recently in the last two days has been experiencing crashing randomly in not only gaming, but general tasks on his computer. He does have automatic updates on for windows, however it looks like nothing has been actually updated besides a display driver on the second of October, which as of writing this post--hilariously enough--is the fourth of October which is exactly two days later. His specs are as follows:

RX 7900XTX
Ryzen 9 9800x3d
32gb DDR5 ram 6000mhz CL32 or CL30
1TB NVME (windows install)

Windows install: 25H2
AMD Driver Version: Adrenalin 26.8.1 (8/20)

Temperature on components are more than adequate.

We have noticed that when the computer freezes or turns black, the graphics card will be disabled in device manager.

AI pointed towards 25H2 and 26H2 causing driver timeouts involving a driver conflict which disables the GPU in device manager.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

I am trying to get h mode 7 to work with GTBS. I got the 3d to work outside of battle maps but when i start a battle map it closes game window without even an error message.

I'm less looking for you to solve the problem for me (as I think that would take entirely too much hand holding and work on your end) and more expecting you to point me in the right direction. I think I just need the names of relevant programs, tutorials, or right keywords to google a solution.

I have a 2015 Novation Circuit FFFA001332-01

Anyone knows how to link a controller Power-A (cabled) to the IPad Air? I've tried to connected it but it doesn't work.

Anyone knows how to link a controller Power-A (cabled) to the IPad Air? I've tried to connected it but it doesn't work.

​

I am experiencing intermittent black-screen/display blinking followed by a complete system freeze on my HP laptop.

**System:**

\* Laptop: HP 15s-fq5xxx

\* Product/SKU: 9D3N9PA#ACJ

\* Windows 11

\* OS Build: 10.0.26200

\* BIOS: AMI F.22 (23-Apr-2024)

\* Graphics: Intel integrated graphics

\* Graphics driver: 32.0.101.5542

\* Driver date: 06-Aug-2024

\* Driver provider: Intel Corporation

**Problem:**

The screen intermittently starts blinking/flickering and then the entire system becomes unresponsive. Caps Lock does not respond and my external USB mouse also loses power/its optical light turns off. The issue can occur around the Windows login/password screen as well.

**Reliability Monitor records:**

\* Problem Event Name: LiveKernelEvent

\* Code: **1A8**

\* Parameters: 1 / 0 / 0 / 0

\* OS Version: 10.0.26200

\* Bucket ID:

\`LKD_0x1A8_KEYBD_HOTKEY_GraphicsUnknown_Intel_dxgkrnl!DISPLAYSTATECHECKER::CreateBlackScreenLiveDump\`

**Troubleshooting already performed:**

\* Windows Update: all updates installed

\* HP Support Assistant: no further updates available

\* BIOS: currently F.22; no newer update is being offered for my exact system

\* HP Hardware Diagnostics Fast Test: PASSED

\* HP Hardware Diagnostics Extensive Test: PASSED

\* Current Intel graphics driver has not yet been manually changed or reinstalled

Since the HP hardware diagnostics pass, I am trying to determine whether this is a graphics-driver/Windows graphics-stack issue rather than a physical hardware failure.

Could you please advise whether **Intel graphics driver 32.0.101.5542** **is known to cause this type of** **LiveKernelEvent 1A8 / DISPLAYSTATECHECKER** failure on Windows 11 build 26200, and whether I should try a specific OEM or previous Intel graphics driver?

I would also appreciate any recommended diagnostic steps before using DDU or changing drivers.

Thank you.

I’ve been having trouble with my network adapter; the Realtek 8852BE driver performed poorly right from the start. I tried various ways to fix it, but the solutions were only temporary. Eventually, I did something that caused the internet to stop working entirely, so I decided to do a clean install of Windows. I reinstalled the same driver, and things improved, but the internet still cuts out after a period of active use—showing Error Code 45.

I know i've had this application i think for xbox or rather a game i play that uses it maybe or its on windows by default . I never noticed it in resouce monitor network tab until i recently ran a game that uses it and it updated. I'm wondering anyone else also have this happen.

Hello. I bought a new nvme ssd as my current boot drive is a hard drive. I used an app to transfer all of the files over to my ssd, and in order to test it out, I unplugged the sata cables from my motherboard (tuf gaming x570plus WiFI). to try and boot off of the ssd, but the file transfer was unsuccessful. After pluggin the cables back in to boot off the hdd, I have no longer had access to wifi. I tried wiping the drivers, checking to see if the sata cables and nearby cables were properly seated, I did a power cycle, network reset, all to no avail. I know the wifi is working as I am connected to it on my phone and it works perfectly. The only breakthrough is that sometimes after restarting the pc, the wifi works for 1-5 minutes before it disconnects and refuses to connect again. This does not happen everytime i restart. Bluetooth is still working as well. All it says when i try to connect to my wifi is "Can't connect to this network".

Any ideas on whats going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: I installed a new instance of windows from a usb drive onto the ssd, and the wifi is finally working again. My pc was backed up so i can simply ignore the hdd from now without any issues.

hey yall

long story short, i was on my desktop and was browsing stuff when my screen went green. It was the first time this happened after i replaced my graphics card about a year ago, so i turned off the system. When i tried to reboot it, it wouldn't even turn on. I can't get a single light on or a fan to spin.

My question is, is there any way to assess if this is a power supply issue or a motherboard issue? i can replace one, but i dont have the funds for both

i dont think its a graphics card issue, as no power is getting sent to the pc. please help!

EDIT: I FIXED IT! thank you to those who took the time to respond!

solution: i discharged for longer than i had been, then i took an additional minute or so before trying to turn it on again. Learned a very valuable lesson, and I am never sticking my desktop straight into the wall ever again. Use surge protectors, kids.

I genially don’t know what to do, I have the iPhone 14 Pro Max and I don’t plan on upgrading to another iPhone at all, im gonna upgrade next year to other brand but the problem is that I can’t do anything at all! My phone is to buggy apps don’t work, messages don’t send and phone calls don’t go through and it’s mostly when the storage is way to full.

I don’t have social media like that and the only thing that takes away the most storage is messages which is 3.52 GB and google photos which is 2.62 GB that’s all!
System storage is 75.56 GB and I have IOS 18.7.8 since it’s way too full to even upgrade. Help!! ):

So I was on my laptop watching netflix when i suddenly heard a click and then my laptop just turned off. I have no idea what this could be, and I don't believe I had any malware on it as it was just used for casual browsing, school work and watching shows.

If there is a possible fix please let me know. I really dont want to go out and buy another laptop.. :p

My laptop has been running very slowly, and then I checked task manager and there are hundreds and hundreds of "node.js JavaScript runtime" and it is bogging down my system, I had some spyware on the PC that got quarantined with Malwarebytes that seemed to fix my performance issue and made them stop duplicating, however I restarted thinking it would delete all those functions, and it didn't work and now it's back to duplicating, they start as node then change into "node.js JavaScript runtime". The last thing I installed on my computer was a software that allows xbox360 inputs for game streaming to my pc alongside a bunch of those other things related to streaming games via moonlight or Apollo, the software was outdated and Microsoft shut it down, and it was downloaded from an archive site, but was licensed from Microsoft. I have not installed anything recently that could cause this besides that and maybe one or two ROMs which have not been actually played and have been deleted.

I need help with blocking Ads or anything Ad related in my wifi network. I deeply loathe Advertisement since it started plaguing the worldwide internet and I have no need or care for any and all types of advertising I really really just don't want to see it.

Please help me by providing a way to purge advertisements of all types and kinds of advertisements from entering my home network so I don't need to download ad blocker apps or ad blocker.

so i have two deco routers one main one and one working as an extender my phone has no problem connecting to either of them but my laptop can only connect to the secondary and cant connect to the main for some reason i even turned off the secondary and my laptop can find the network but it cant connect to it it says failed to connect i tried reinstalling my wifi card disabling it and reenabling it and nothing worked

i use an ethernet cable, and my download speed when i check on fast.com is 110kbps, but my upload speed is 570mbps? any idea whats causing this? im in uni halls if that helps

edit: checked the wifi, same issue