I am trying to get into the whole metal art amd metal art sculptures. This is my first project i did. Im trying to see if i can just make some extra cash on the side. Not quitting my day job lol. Just a fun side hobby. I have been welding for 15 years now. If you are interested in any custom rose. Feel free to shoot me a message. I have pictures of the whole process and a small video from start to finish. let me know what you guys think of my rose.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to MIG weld the wheel arch on my 2003 Mazda MX-5 NB.
Every time I try to weld it, I end up blowing holes through the original sheet metal. Even if I make very short tacks (around 1 second or less) and let the metal cool down between them, it still blows through.

I’m using a STAHLWERK MIG/MAG 160 M. I actually bought this welder specifically for this job because it can run at relatively low amperage.

So far I’ve tried:
0.6 mm solid wire with Argon/CO2 shielding gas
0.8 mm solid wire with Argon/CO2 shielding gas
0.8 mm flux-core wire

With all three I’ve tried different settings, from around 20 A all the way up to 100 A, but I keep getting the same problem.
The original sheet metal on the car is around 1 mm thick. The car does have quite a lot of rust, but I’ve cut away the worst rusty sections until I reached what appears to be solid metal. Despite that, I still can’t seem to weld new metal to it without blowing holes through the original panel.
The replacement metal I’m using is also 1 mm steel.

I have cleaned the front side of the original panel back to bare metal, but I haven’t cleaned the back side yet.
I’ve also tried attaching the ground clamp both directly to the new piece of metal and to clean bare metal on the car body, but the problem is the same.

Does anyone have any advice or see something obvious that I might be doing wrong?

I’ve tried a lot of different things at this point, but I just can’t get a clean butt weld between the original bodywork and the new sheet metal.

Thanks!

So I work in kitchen fabrication at a local factory as an apprentice and been learning about the trade and seen online people doing weave patterns and beautiful golden welds and wanted to know how they do that?, how I can also do good beautiful looking welds (of course also strong welds), Image showcases some of the projects that me and my instructor completed.

They show so many settings and what not, but my machine is simple I can only adjust the amperage 😭, we mainly uses 4 number cup and 1.6mm tungsten rod with red color but it gets dull very fast (after 10 or more spots), argon cfh at 5 \~ 10, it's not scratch start weld but we uses a button which only turns the torch on (when pressed) or off (when released)

so I’m a new user on the torchmate 4800 and my previous teacher who worked it is gone now I’ve run into a issue after cutting can someone please assist me I get this error code whenever we attempt to cut and it press down on the metal then gives this error code I’ve tried doing research but nothing I find seems to help with this issue so if anyone can assist me I’d be grateful

I’m trying to understand how long machine knives are ground without introducing too much distortion. With a long, thin hardened steel knife, removing material from one side seems like it could introduce heat or release enough stress to affect flatness.

How is that usually controlled during grinding? Light passes and cooling, the way the knife is supported, grinding both sides in stages, or a combination of these?

Describe the weld on pdf drawing pick the WPQR that covers it, and the WPS fills itself in: sketch, bead sequence, parameters and heat input, all inside the qualified range. Inputs are pre filled according to wpqr ranges and also allow user inputs.
Everything is built for complete welding documentation file. From weld symbol that you attach to pdf to wpqr assignment then to wps creation and at the end welder ndt and dates archival for your finished welding log.

Currently supports only ISO standards.
(15614, 9606, 15609)

I am trying to manufacture some parts and the print calls for 12ga. I am looking for a slip roll that will do the 3.5" wide parts but they are either 16ga at 4' or the next step is a $50k plate roll that does 1/4" thick steel... There isn't enough of these parts to require such a large piece of machinery plus shop space is already at a premium. I would make 10-20 a month and I am building these for our own use and the roller would ONLY be used for these and nothing else. Everything else we use requires a lathe or mill. (Oilfield shop)

Can I use a smaller slip roll (such as https://www.baileigh.com/powered-slip-roll-sr-5016e ) without fear of damaging it since its such a small part compared to a full sheet?