r/Watches • u/devilpanther333 • 23h ago
Discussion [Recommendation Request] Help me pick a dress watch
I'm looking to buy a dress watch in the $5K - $6K range, preferably blue dial with a moonphase, All other suggestions are welcomed, as long as it's a classy dress watch. Thank you.
Longines Flagship Heritage L48154922
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Q1368480 (My grail but I can't really afford it and I heard their quality is not what it used to be)
IWC Portofino Automatic Moon IW459402
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date FC-716N3H6
Omega De Ville Prestige 434.13.41.20.03.001
Zenith ELITE MOONPHASE C922.03.3100.692/01 (Not blue, but at least it's thinner than the JLC Ultra Thin)
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u/According-Benefit-12 23h ago
I think JLC looks great and movement and quality of the watch is better than the rest.
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u/OhMyGlorb 22h ago
Have you considered a Glashutte Original Sixties?
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u/devilpanther333 22h ago
Its beautiful.
There is even a blue dial. Tnx7
u/OhMyGlorb 22h ago
And with the blue dial you could make it casual or dressy depending on the strap you put on it!
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u/Altruistic_Cry_8953 23h ago
While I'm a FC fan in some ways, for moonphase the only correct answer is JLC.
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u/Dr0110111001101111 22h ago
I mean… breguet, FP journe, and Lange all make moon phase watches I’d prefer over JLC, but I agree it’s the best one in OPs list
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u/Odd_Macaroon9109 18h ago
Not for OP clearly states that he cant afford it even though its his grail
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u/daftg 22h ago
If you are attracted to the jlc, nothing will fill the void for that. I'm on the same boat, but willing to hold back just so I can find a good deal for one.
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u/Dr0110111001101111 22h ago
I mean, I’d rather a FP Journe or breguet, but those options are certainly not better deals.
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u/blackpaws92 16h ago
Get something good for your budget to satisfy your itch today, work hard couple years, and once you have much more funds consider geting a Lange 1 moonphase from secondary market :)
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u/Destrok41 15h ago
Not really a dress watch? Its HUGE and has multiple complications? Its gorgeous, but not a dress watch. Definitely draws the eye.
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u/Komaug 16h ago
The jlc looks head and shoulders above the others, as it should for that price. It costs twice as much. However, I think most of what is making it look amazing here is an incredible photographer. Who took that photo? I would love to see more of their work…
I would go for the Longines in this list with your criteria. It is a great watch, and I guarantee there is a reason you put that one first.
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u/devilpanther333 13h ago
It's first because of budget. My fear that because the Longines tries to imitate JLC I will always have the feeling I made a poor compromise
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u/LTJG_KAFFEE 22h ago
Have you ever set a moon phase? Are you sure you want to on a watch that might only be worn intermittently?
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u/Dr0110111001101111 22h ago
There was a discussion about this recently, and it seems like most people just let it run unset as decoration. But this problem is easily resolved with a watch winding case.
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u/YA2984 20h ago
Haha that was my post. My take on it though is that if this is a concern to you, get one with a moonphase and a date, not just a moonphase. The longines, Frédérique constant and JLC both show the date with the dial over the moonphase so this is actually a lot easier to set than a no date moonphase.
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u/Dr0110111001101111 20h ago
Ah right, I remember that now. I’ve never even seen a moon phase watch in person, so I don’t really understand what’s involved in setting it or how a date complication would help
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u/embalees 13h ago
How is it worse setting a moonphase without a date? I only have a watch with both.
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u/LTJG_KAFFEE 22h ago
My OCD could not handle it. And a watch winder solves the problem while introducing other considerations like cost, wear, noise, etc. But yes it’s a solution for some.
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u/Loedpistol 19h ago
I always find it funny when people drop five figures on watches and then go get the cheapest straps and boxes they can find in places like AliX. Satiate consumerism and get another watch that sits in the box most of the times anyway? Yes please! Spend a few hundred bucks on a decent winder? Sacrilegious! You guys are hilariously pathetic
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u/Toys_and_Bacon 19h ago edited 19h ago
Most moon phase watches come with quick set pusher, and a tool. Easier to set the moonphase than to set the rest of the functions. I still dont bother to set mine lol
Edit: out of curiosity, I did a test.
I used 44 seconds to set time and date on my Girard Perregaux 1945 with moonphase. It ran out roughly 40 hours ago, so not like I had to scroll a lot of dates.
I used 21 seconds to set the moonphase, that included googling the correct moonphase and finding a twig to use as a pusher. I guess I lucked out with the twig, but that's life with kids in the house.
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u/LTJG_KAFFEE 19h ago
Brother if you need a tool to set, then it cannot be easier than other functions lol.
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u/Toys_and_Bacon 19h ago edited 19h ago
But it is..in every way. Easier as in less time spent doing it, easier as in less manual dexterity required. Easier as in less ways to mess it up.
And it could set it with a wooden toothpick as well. Only reason I dont, is that for me a moonphase is purely decorative.
My point is that the inclusion of a moonphase complication does not require its wearer to be a rocket scientist, and it should not scare OP out of a good looking watch. Have YOU ever set a moonphase, I wonder 😅
Edit: Sneaking in an even more wild way a moonphase is easier to set than time and date: I can literally look at the moon to find the correct position. I can't do that that accurately with the time and date. I need a twig and eyes to set the moonphase. Maybe I should starting having my moonhpase up to date, lol :D
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u/LTJG_KAFFEE 19h ago edited 19h ago
Four steps with two dependencies. That’s fine for y’all but not my bag. OP doesn’t have to be a rocket scientist, but if he’s going to need some tools and a moon calendar handy, can we agree on “amateur astronomer”
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u/Loedpistol 19h ago
How is glancing at a moon calendar, pulling out the crown, setting the moon phase to new moon (or full moon, whatever floats your boat), and then just rotating the crown for the amount of clicks that matches the number of days passed after the last new moon / full moon so much work for some people? It literally doesn’t even take a minute.
People justify hating on winders because SeTtInG tHe WaTcH iN tHe MoRnInG iS sO cOoL but then are too lazy to spend 30 seconds to set a fucking moon phase..
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u/Apprehensive_Grass85 21h ago
Im currently obsessed about the Mühle-Glasshüte Teutonia IV Moonphase. Its a dress watch with 10atm WR and moonphase. Beautiful in white dial with blue numbers or black with gold numbers.
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u/Puzzleheaded_Dig3730 23h ago
The longines on ne,you can't afford a JLC with that budget,probably longines is the only you can afford from that list except the FC which is inferior to Longines
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u/biguk997 18h ago
You can get the jlc used around that price
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u/Puzzleheaded_Dig3730 18h ago
In some foreign market (HK-Japan) maybe you will findo something at 5-6k,then you will have to pay tariffs and add another 20%-25% to the final price,for an used watch that in case something goes wrong in a couple of years you will have to pay a good amount of money 💰
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u/konigwolf32890 21h ago
That JLC is not in that price budget, but like many said save up and get it, buy once cry once.
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u/Pecuniarist 6h ago
The JLC is theoretically really nice. The Zenith has exceptional historical horology, and an interesting dial thanks to the texture and asymmetry. The IWC is nice, but I personally don’t like the lugs. This Omega wouldn’t even tempt me a bit because it’s boring and just doesn’t compare visually to the others. FC looks good, but for the price, I’d rather have something else - even though the clear caseback is cool.
The Longines is a long established and respected horologist, has great quality, and is an exceptional value. You could literally have 3 Longines for the cost of the JLC! And they look like they were separated at birth! For my money, I’m taking the Longines.
That said, if you really want the JLC, you’d be wasting your money on anything else. You don’t want to look down at your gorgeous dress watch and think, “it’s beautiful, but it’s not the JLC.” So ultimately, get what you love, and live what you get!
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u/Frankim24 15h ago
No love for IWC? In my opinion, best looking lugs and side profile for a dress watch. FC looks clean as well.
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u/ajfox4 5h ago
On the IWC, I don't like how the roman "12" is chopped in half by the subdial so that it looks like a short roman "7". Otherwise a beautiful watch.
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u/Frankim24 5h ago
I agree, you can say that with all IWC models, they love to partially cover the indices with their subdials. I like it cause it adds some depth, but each to their own I guess!
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u/robarpoch 22h ago
I own the JLC in blue, and it’s spectacular - full stop. Out of your budget though so…
The IWC is intriguing. Not in love, but in like certainly.
The FC shows well in promo pics, but I’ve had bad experiences with reliability (well over a decade ago - things may have changed.)
The Zenith can be had in blue, btw, and that sunburst dial looks great in that color… https://www.chrono24.com/zenith/zenith-elite--id44120695.htm?searchHash=7725e3c6_bimWM6&pos=1
If you can’t afford the JLC and don’t want to wait until you can, I kind of dig that Zenith, but only in the blue dial.
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u/bagels666 20h ago
Insane how many people in this thread obviously did not read the post.
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u/devilpanther333 19h ago
That's fine. I'm glad to see such a strong JLC selection. That's my first choice, maybe I should really save for it and not compromise.
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u/wecanseeyou 19h ago
The JLC dominates the budget ones like Longines and FC. They resemble each other in photos but not at all in the hand in my opinion. The JLC is much more expensive, but if you consider used, I've seen some screaming deals on the secondary market. The price hikes only seemed to affect retail price.
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u/devilpanther333 19h ago
Idk, $10k for a used one
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u/wecanseeyou 16h ago
Yikes, I just checked and you're right, I saw mostly $9-$10. I thought the last time I checked it was more like $6-$7, even for the blue dial.
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u/devilpanther333 16h ago
Also, the cheaper ones on Chrono24 are from HK, aka Chinese fakes for sure.
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u/Open-Sky314 20h ago
JLC is the one…gorgeous watch. I would just save for it. All the others you will look down and ask…what if?
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u/Alarming_Resolve_966 19h ago
JLC is on the top of the list, IWC as well, Omega is fine looking but, not as much as those two. In middle price range Longines is always a good choice, FC is underdog, brand that offers looks and quality for affordable price. Zenith is excelent watch brand, tradition and heritage beyond doubt, maybe in blue would be more beautiful, this way looks more casual.
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u/DiscountSensitive574 19h ago
I would immediately rule the omega and IWC out because I don’t like the date window on the omega and the markers on the IWC.
I personally prefer the blue dials in this selection so my preference would be JLC, then FC, followed by Longines (very close to the FC I would only be able to decide in person).
The FC has my favorite dial layout of the selection, but the Longines is also very nice. The JLC is plain but extremely well executed.
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u/TheEngineerBallroom 15h ago
I just came to say you match my taste exactly. JLC is also the grail of mine… and probably nothing will match the feeling of having one. Save up.
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u/just-here-for--porn_ 14h ago
The omega is a beauty, but why do watch companies frequently use IIII instead of IV on their dials.
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u/fiddlerwoaroof 8h ago
Roman numerals were much less standardized than the version that’s taught today: you can find both on old inscriptions, etc. and it’s now semi-traditional on timepieces, possibly because it balances VIII better.
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u/InformalAttorney8539 12h ago
the Zenith looks terrible. avoid. the JLC is very expensive. the IWC... meh. i bought the Omega a couple of weeks ago (silver dial though) but honestly I would have been happy with the Longines and FC too. Probably go with the LG because of the gold moon and slightly better movement.
The Omega is double the price, and I'm madly in love with it... but it's not double the watch.
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u/20Bishops 11h ago
I just bought that Longines last month. I am not in love with it. The dial is exceptionally difficult to read in pretty much any light and I couldn't read the date on that small dial if my life depended on it. I wore it a few times but I'm afraid it will spend its life in my closet. And if I had to pick off the rest of the list I'd go Jaeger, so clearly I haven't learned my lesson. The Omega is nice too.
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u/devilpanther333 5h ago
You got the exact one, the blue dial?
How fat does it feel for a dress watch?
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u/mrjbacon 10h ago
Any of those watches you posted with the date subdial over moonphase would be what I'd go for. Longines, JLC, FC.
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u/SnooLobsters9180 7h ago
The longines is an excellent choice just know its much thicker than the JLC !
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u/ERR_invalidString 21h ago edited 21h ago
JLC MUT hands down
Edit: Just actually read the post. I think these can be had second hand in your price range. Otherwise, I'd go for the Longines, but I would personally look at it thinking that I didn't actually get what I wanted. If that's you, then you might want to consider something that looks less like the MUT
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u/devilpanther333 21h ago
Yeah, that's me. I will be looking at that Longines feeling disappointed forever.
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u/fumbler00ski 19h ago
The JLC is gorgeous and you can’t go wrong. My personal dress watch grail is the Lange Saxonia Moonphase
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u/hoangtm1611 22h ago
At the price range you mentioned then IWC or Omega are the best choices. You can’t go wrong with either of them. I know you like the moonphase, but I personally dig the De Ville more: the dial has a subtle power reserve and small seconds indicators, is slightly slimmer and has an open caseback to see the movement inside.
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u/Physical_Display_873 22h ago
JLC in general but Longines based on price for me. The Longines looks really good. The Zenith is cool but the blue moon phase is going to stand way out.
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u/TheModerateGenX 22h ago
What’s your goal with this purchase? Do you wear a dress watch often? Is it for personal gratification or are you hoping to get a nod from fellow watch enthusiasts at the business meeting?
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u/sven_goffman 22h ago
JLC second hand is in your budget. They'd still be under warranty so don't worry about quality
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u/No-Patient-7944 22h ago
These are wildly different prices points. And moonphase automatics are a nightmare if you don't wear them all the time, and cost more to service (as will the IWC and JLC anyway
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u/Alarming_Clue3193 22h ago
- IWC Portofino Automatic Moon IW459402
- Longines Flagship Heritage L48154922
- nothing else
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u/theindus 21h ago
These watches seem to be wildly different in pricing. I would pick watch enthusiast pick such as JLC but these are all amazing. If selling it down the line is not an issue, pick what you like the best.
I would go with JLC, Omega, Longines in that order
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u/Murphy223 21h ago
The Jaeger-LeCoultre is amazing looking but if you can't afford it, don't bother. The IWC with the Roman numerals is a nice touch
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u/CrownSteve1 21h ago
JLC is the best of the bunch (and you pay for it) followed by the Omega (again, get what you pay for). Deals for both gray. The Longines is my favorite of the others.
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u/Frescarosa 21h ago
That Zenith is stunning and it would be my choice without hesitation.
Second choice would be the JLC, it's considered the reference in this style of watches and it's the safest bet for a timeless memory. The others are kind of pale copies of it.
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u/VarietySharp6181 20h ago
I have been saving up to buy the Longines and I still think it is the best looking of the bunch. It can be had for $2500 on Jomashop so unless you are independently wealthy take the difference and put it in a mutual fund.
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u/crosspolytope 20h ago
I have that zenith and it is beautiful and thin. About the same thickness as the JLC. It does wear bigger than the JLC so it depends on your wrist.
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u/Raoulduck3000 19h ago
Longines is the best value and the look is great. The movement is fine and Longines is a classic label. An IYKYK for watch nerds.
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u/Gibcaster000 19h ago
If the JLC is what you really want, save for it or look for it on the secondary market. Anything less will feel like a compromise and leave you still thinking about the JLC (which I wouldn’t blame you for, it’s an absolutely stunning watch).
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u/Impressive_Estate_87 19h ago
Zenith for me. Most gorgeous watch after the JLC. Plus, I think a dress watch should have a more traditional white dial, or possibly black
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u/ReflectionEterna 19h ago
JLC would be my choice. If you don't have a JLC, that is one brand to have at least one representative of in a growing watch collection, and they do dress watches as well as anyone.
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u/kingk1teman 19h ago
Out of these, the JLC or the IWC look the best to me, with JLC being the 1st one I'd pick.
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u/BelloMike 18h ago
I think the JLC is the best from that list but the Longines would be my choice money-wise
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u/random_user_name99 18h ago
JLC, but it is pricey. If wanted to pick out of these and JLC was my top pick I wouldn’t be satisfied with one of the others. I would save up. For what it’s worth the Longines would be my second choice. It is beautiful.
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u/JOHANNES_BRAHMS 17h ago
The JLC is the best out of all of them. I would highly advise trying them on in person. I thought I could get away with the older FC moonphase as a substitute but I don’t like the dial or proportions at all in person.
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u/No-Might-5472 15h ago
I personally love the IWC, the JLC would be my other option but if I'm correct, the IWC could also save you a few bucks in comparison.
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u/VintageSwatch 15h ago
You can’t lose - these are all Gorgeous !
Omega Longines and JLC top of the pops for me
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u/nodnodwinkwink 15h ago
How about the Oris Artelier Complication
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u/devilpanther333 13h ago edited 13h ago
I saw it in store a few days go. Not impressed.
Also, I saw some comments there are issues with some movements
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u/WolfOMatic15 13h ago
For me (a huge Longines fan) the Heritage Moonphase is just a little too thick for what a dress watch should be and the sides of the case are brushed. I personally think a dress watch should be fully polished but not everyone will agree.
Personally I'd recommend the following alternatives:
Longines Master Collection Moonphase. Thickness 11.1 mm Diameter: 40 mm https://www.longines.com/en-us/p/watch-the-longines-master-collection-moonphase-l2-909-4-92-6
Tudor 1926 Luna. Thickness 10.1 mm. Diameter 39 mm. Yeah this moonphase isn't super attractive to me but it is blue and it is thinner than other budget options. Also it can be hard to read in certain lights and the moon from the moonphase is the same color as the clouds. https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/1926/m91560-0002
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u/Chiron17 12h ago
You say you can't afford the JLC, and while you might think it won't 'scratch the itch' I would go for a cheaper option for a good few years rather than stretch your personal finances for a wristwatch. Is the FC the most economical here? It looks great.
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u/Accomplished-Can1399 11h ago
I also like the Jaeger-LeCoultre most, but the Longines is not bad either.
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u/stealth710 11h ago
Among those the JLC, no doubts. But as you said, it’s above budget. It’s worth it tho, if you ask me. Among the others, I’d honestly pick the Longines as its the nicest, and the best value option. There’s a few alternatives in the market tho: Glashütte, some other Omegas, Grand Seiko to name a few.
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u/Popular_Fan3755 10h ago
Man I couldn't choose between the jlc and that IWC, jlc is a real Craftsmanship creation while IWC provide exceptional attention to details and both here are beautiful. I would go for the jlc for a dress watch though cause it's actually their domain when IWC is before anything a pilot watch historical creator (I just bought an affordable Avi8 homaging the red tails, AfroAmericans units during WW2, but still IWC makes and made wonderful german fliegers)
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u/Heifidelio 4h ago
Frederique Constant Classic echtes In-House-Manufakturwerk zu einem unschlagbaren Preis.
Gehäuse ist mit über 12 mm spürbar dicker als die JLC (weniger klassisch "Slim").
Technisch in dieser Preisklasse ein absoluter Gewinner, wenn dich die Höhe nicht stört. Sie kommt der JLC auch recht nahe.
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u/CG-Saviour878879 23h ago
Get an Omega De Ville on the secondary. One of the best purchases between $3-5k currently imo. Longines oftentimes underwhelmes on the wrist and is a very clear step down from an Omega. FC is dogshit, as you should know.
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u/ICantEvenGarne 22h ago
JLC is what the longines and FC is trying to be. If you are in the position get the original instead of the imitation.
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u/Pea_Tear_Griffin11 20h ago
I love my Zenith chrono, for whatever that’s worth
For watches of this caliber, you have to see them in person and hold them in hand before you decide. When I bought the Zenith, it was third on my list until I tried them on. The fit just felt right, and the quality of finishing was better to my eye.
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u/Aga_Xeno 23h ago edited 21h ago
The problem with your collections is that you try to compare watches from extremely different backgrounds and prestige. JLC is a watchmakers watch, Longines is almost entry level. And all have different re-sale values.
I think the IWC offers the best value although I was always fun of Frederique Constant.
Check Chrono24 for second hand prices. IWC can be bought there for a very good discount.
Also, bear in mind that gold/white gold on entry level watches is a complete waste of money.
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u/swiftmen991 22h ago
Zenith is not entry level lol. Even FC isn’t that cheap
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u/Aga_Xeno 21h ago
I dont really disagree, but their "street-cred" is far lower than JLC, Omega and JWC. I dont make the rules. If I did, a Zenith El Primero would be more expensive than a Rolex Daytona!
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u/TheModerateGenX 22h ago
Zenith is entry level now? 😆
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u/Aga_Xeno 21h ago
I stand corrected!! I meant Longines...which is not entry level of course, but next to JLC or IWC, well...(edited my comment as well).
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u/slimeygoop67 23h ago
You have the money to afford any of these watches but can't make your own decisions?
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u/devilpanther333 22h ago
My decision is the JLC, but I can't afford it.
I guess I'm just looking for a direction with other options :/→ More replies (2)
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u/AdministrativeAge685 23h ago
Obviously the JLC wins here and most ways. In love how thin it is.
The FC is pretty big for a dress watch. Of the remaining if the JLC is not in the budget, I’d say Longines.